If you want to see the river, estuary and coast between Machynlleth and Aberdovey, catch the train that runs right along the coast, as we did this evening. If you would like a spectacular and strenuous walk nowhere near the coast at all, walk this stretch of the Welsh Coast Path.
We left Machynlleth with overcast skies. The path takes the old main road out of town, while the new road marches on fat white pillars over the flood plain. Then up and up and up a very minor road, then a grassy path, to 820’ in just a couple of miles. The views opened up and though it was still a bit murky, it was a big improvement on yesterday. Almost immediately we slithered back down a stony path, then more gently down a couple of miles of forest tracks – mostly conifer plantations unlike yesterday’s temperate rain forests, but with a good variety of native species at the edges.
A lone picnic bench materialised just as we started thinking about eating lunch, then we crossed the main road at Pennal and walked up the drive to the Plas Talgarth Hotel and through the woodland beyond, with lovely views across the river.
Back across the main road again and the second big climb of the day, slightly less steep but our legs were tireder. Some sunshine now and as we climbed up to 800’, more and more rolling Welsh hills. Then a beautiful section, first with views south over the estuary and Borth bog, then as we switched to the other side of the hill, down into Cwm Maethlon (Happy Valley). The track rose and fell for rather longer than I had anticipated but it felt worth it.
Eventually we turned south and started descending steeply, though several open fields full of cows, calves and bulls (I know if chased you should let your dog go, but what if you don’t have a dog??). We survived (they were completely uninterested) and finally could see the rooftops of Aberdovey and hear the sea and gulls and the clock striking six.
Friday night is music night back in Machynlleth, bizarrely centred on the bike shop. We’ve finished with the Welsh Coast Path for now, but there might be another walk tomorrow or Sunday…
Home From Home 
it looks beautiful – but those hills sound a bit of a challenge! Well done, both! xxx
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