annechambers

Teifi Pools

While in mid-Wales, it seemed like a good opportunity to do another walk I’d heard about, around the remote Teifi Pools. So after another scenic train ride along the south side of the Dyfi estuary (three ospreys!) to pick up the car in Borth, we drove through Aberystwyth and up beyond Strata Florida abbey.

We followed the Cambrian Way up a quiet valley for a couple of miles, passing a marker of its halfway point between Cardiff and Conwy.

When we reached the first of the pools – actually reservoirs at the top of the river Teifi – it felt a little less remote than the valley, with a dam of course and a vehicle track, and a couple of fishermen. A strange landscape though of low grassy hills and the pools snuggling between them.

After walking around a second pool, we descended again along a faint path through another very quiet valley, down to an abandoned farmhouse. Thankful that we were nearly finished, we were unprepared for a final half mile or so of shoulder high bracken on a steeply shelving hillside.

Our holiday finished with a good meal and night at Y Talbot in Tregaron. My walking wanderlust has been satisfied for the time being and we are back home with aching calves (me) and a badly bruised knee (Ian, who slipped on the last downhill). 6.6 miles around the Teifi Pools, over 28 on the Coast Path and some significant climbs. Not completely past it yet!

Into the bracken for a challenging final half mile

Machynlleth to Aberdovey

If you want to see the river, estuary and coast between Machynlleth and Aberdovey, catch the train that runs right along the coast, as we did this evening. If you would like a spectacular and strenuous walk nowhere near the coast at all, walk this stretch of the Welsh Coast Path.

We left Machynlleth with overcast skies. The path takes the old main road out of town, while the new road marches on fat white pillars over the flood plain. Then up and up and up a very minor road, then a grassy path, to 820’ in just a couple of miles. The views opened up and though it was still a bit murky, it was a big improvement on yesterday. Almost immediately we slithered back down a stony path, then more gently down a couple of miles of forest tracks – mostly conifer plantations unlike yesterday’s temperate rain forests, but with a good variety of native species at the edges.

A lone picnic bench materialised just as we started thinking about eating lunch, then we crossed the main road at Pennal and walked up the drive to the Plas Talgarth Hotel and through the woodland beyond, with lovely views across the river.

Back across the main road again and the second big climb of the day, slightly less steep but our legs were tireder. Some sunshine now and as we climbed up to 800’, more and more rolling Welsh hills. Then a beautiful section, first with views south over the estuary and Borth bog, then as we switched to the other side of the hill, down into Cwm Maethlon (Happy Valley). The track rose and fell for rather longer than I had anticipated but it felt worth it.

Eventually we turned south and started descending steeply, though several open fields full of cows, calves and bulls (I know if chased you should let your dog go, but what if you don’t have a dog??). We survived (they were completely uninterested) and finally could see the rooftops of Aberdovey and hear the sea and gulls and the clock striking six.

Friday night is music night back in Machynlleth, bizarrely centred on the bike shop. We’ve finished with the Welsh Coast Path for now, but there might be another walk tomorrow or Sunday…

Looking across to where we were yesterday

Tre Taliesin to Machynlleth

On the plus side, we didn’t get too hot today. On the minus, most of the day we were damp and clammy, and there weren’t many good views as every time we went up a hill (and there were several) we were in the cloud.

We stopped early on our walk for breakfast at Cletwr, a community shop and cafe on the A487. The walk was a mixture of very minor roads, forest tracks and paths, and generally well-marked. It cleared sufficiently by mid-morning for us to enjoy a brief glimpse of the estuary.

Above the village of Furnace we met the only other walkers of the entire day, and that was one of the nicest bits of the walk with a cascading stream and then a lovely stretch contouring the hillside, where we stopped to eat our sandwiches. But it got wetter and mistier and the waterproof trousers went on.

Not a lot of obvious bird life but we saw a few kites, a peregrine in hot pursuit of something (we heard the whoosh before we saw it) and a heron. Harebells, rowan with red berries already and several types of heather.

After seven miles or so we turned east up the Llyfnant valley which felt peaceful and mysterious in the mist. Steeply down into a valley and then up again to test our aching legs, then at last we could see Machynlleth below us, with a final challenge of slippery steps cut into the rock. Now drying off in the White Lion in the middle of town – and the sun has just come out! 11.2 miles and it felt like enough.

Borth to Tre Taliesin

We drove up from Pembrokeshire after lunch, through Aberystwyth (50 years after we started university there!) and on to Borth which hasn’t improved in 50 years. From there we could see our final destination, Aberdovey, only 4 miles away, but there is a very large river in the way and we have to go up to Machynlleth and back down the other side.

We picked up the Welsh coast path where we left off 10 years ago, and skirted around Borth Bog which is apparently very interesting if you like that sort of thing. It was one of the flattest walks we’ve done and easy going, with a few flowers, butterflies and dragonflies, but also a lot of bitey flies delighted that a meal had turned up. So we arrived at our quirky AirBnB in Tre Taliesin somewhat bloodstained and itchy.

It was only a short walk today, 4 miles to practice carrying our big packs. OK so far but tomorrow is much longer with hills….

We’re off again…

I said I’d had enough of blogging, and it’s four years since our last serious walk – we haven’t been idle but life has thrown a few unexpected challenges in our way. Now we’re seeing if we can still manage the big rucksacks but just for a couple of days, and continuing the Welsh Coast Path north from where we left it, near the end of the Ceredigion Coast Path, ten years ago. This walk was originally intended to be the nicely alliterative Borth to Barmouth, but has been shortened to Borth to Aberdovey. So tomorrow we drive north. If anyone is still following us, wish us well!

The Mortimer Trail – reflections

Getting home did not go quite as planned. To cut a 6.5 hour story short, this involved a taxi from Kington to Knighton, a train to Llandrindod, a very large coach occupied only by us for much of the way to Llandeilo, an hour in a cafe, a 281 bus to Carmarthen bus station, a hot walk to Carmarthen train station to catch the train that we were meant to be on to Haverfordwest and finally the car home. Might just take the car all the way next time!

We’d hoped to see many attractive stations on the Heart of Wales line but the service terminated at Llandrindod

We both enjoyed the walk, despite the heat, but it didn’t have that sense of journey which, for me, is very important. Although the route was overall south-west, there was a lot of zigzagging in order to climb up yet another conifer-topped hill (hence no views from the top), and we could rarely look back and see where we’d been, nor where we were going next. Also not helped by having to be taxied to accommodation at the end of the day. Something to bear in mind when planning the next walk (if there is one! and I may not blog in future, it’s starting to feel like hard work). But it was lovely to get away and good to know we are not completely past it. Thanks for reading.

The Mortimer Trail (sort of) Day 3

We had a lovely meal at the Riverside Inn in Aymestrey last night, and slept well in our very large room. Our taxi driver from yesterday arrived to collect us just as a lady from a different firm arrived for our bags, much shaking of heads over how ridiculous it was for Contours not to stick with one company. We’re not too bothered though, as long as our luggage is waiting for us when we arrive at the next hotel.

From the drop-off at Byton, we walked half a mile back down the road which loosened us up a bit. It already felt very hot with almost no breeze. Then we turned off the road – straight into more dense bracken/ nettles/ brambles. It was no worse than yesterday, and going uphill with no time pressure was an improvement, but I hope they send out a man with a strimmer soon.

There is a view if you climb on the bench

There was some respite in woodland, and eventually we reached more forestry commission land on the top of the hill – cool and lovely in the shade. The path turned and headed down through beech trees, but soon we were descending along field edges and very aware of the heat. Several fields of cows, but mostly behind electric fences. Then we reached the church at Titley – we’d hoped for trees in the churchyard but there were none, so we sat and ate our sandwiches in the porch, the only shade available. A little further on we found the Stagg Inn, full of Sunday Lunchers, but they found us a small table and brought us ginger beer without turning up their noses too much.

Given the heat, we decided to follow the Herefordshire Trail from Titley to Kington as it looked shorter and avoided trudging up two more fairly high hills. A good move – though I started to wonder if I was hallucinating first when coming across a farmer practicing golf, then when we found what the map said was a dismantled railway.

The shorter route led us through woodland (unfortunately redolent with dead fox and other animals) in more or less a straight line to Kington. My turn to flag – we should have had a break sooner – but we reached our hotel at last, in time to use the pool and spa facilities – very welcome after all our exertions

Back home on the train tomorrow, and a chance to reflect on the walk.

The Mortimer Trail Day 2

Today started well – we said goodbye to our comfortable Ludlow guest house and returned by taxi to yesterday’s finish in Orleton Common. The taxi driver cheered us on our way by saying it was already 26C at 10:15, and it didn’t get cooler.

The first of many rickety stiles, with a sign to bang your head on

After the first climb through unshaded fields, we were in forestry plantations for a while, which was pleasant. The path then skirted round Croft Ambrey Iron Age hill fort, with the banks to our left and a very steep scarp to our right and views over to Wigmore. We stayed just outside the conifer forest on a pleasant path through bracken before a long descent on a stony forest track. I was a little alarmed when a stile led into a field of Hereford Blacks, one with a ring in its nose, but they seemed totally uninterested in us. Down through a steep wood, across a field of cut hay, and into the middle of Aymestrey village fete!

We didn’t divert to the pub (where we are staying tonight) but pushed on as the taxi arranged for the end was scheduled rather earlier than we would have liked. So after a brief sandwich stop we continued, now alongside a small river where we might have seen otters and kingfishers if we’d had time. Then up a steep and overgrown path and onto more forest tracks, climbing all the time up Shobdon Hill. By now it was seriously hot and Ian was flagging so we took it rather more slowly and detoured on a path that missed out the worst hill.

Rejoining the trail a mile or so later, we immediately lost it again and then had to walk back up (why do I go wrong on the downhills?) to find a badly signed gate into a sheep field. There was a path of sorts, in the correct place according to GPS, but it was muddy and broken away, and it twisted its way round trees and bushes. After a while it was mostly through dense head-high bracken interlaced with brambles, nettles and goose grass, still treacherous underfoot, for the best or worst part of a mile – truly one of the most unpleasant paths I have ever walked.

It became clear we weren’t going to meet the taxi deadline so Ian tried to call him and left a message. We carried on getting more and more scratched and stung, until we finally emerged into a wood. The path was steeper but clear, and with great relief we emerged at the bottom just as the taxi driver rang back, he was still waiting for us – and keen to tell us the temperature was over 30C.

Yesterday was around 10.5 miles, today 12.4. Hope we survive the final walk tomorrow.

The Mortimer Trail Day 1

After breakfast (and I was defeated by breakfast before we’ve started!) we set off down the hill into Ludlow. The town was busy in the sunshine, lots of interesting shops and market stalls, but we stopped only briefly to buy two absolutely enormous baguettes for lunch. Then after a quick selfie at the start of the trail, we headed off round the castle walls and down to the river.

On the other side of Dinham Bridge we immediately climbed up Whitcliffe Common, heavily wooded. I was expecting spectacular views back down to Ludlow but there were none. It was already hot and we were glad to be in the shade. After a mile or so we entered Forestry Comission land, with wider tracks and more conifers – and more flies determined to make a meal out of me. I retrieved the out-of-date Anthisan from the very bottom of my rucksack, added a slick of Avon So Soft (as allegedly used by the SAS as insect repellent but you’d smell them coming) on top of the factor 30 and slithered on my way. After a while the path descended into Mary Knoll Valley, then after crossing the stream we climbed, gently enough but for a long time, up the other side to Climbing Jack Common.

We had been promised views, and when we got to the very top we could see over the tops of the trees in most directions, and could pick out the Malverns to the east, the Black Mountains to the south, and rolling ridges to the north and west. But it was a little hazy and, living where we do, we have very high expectations of what constitutes a good view!

South west from the highest point on the trail

Heading onwards, we missed a waymark or two, but I was using the OS app on my phone and could see we were still on the line with green diamonds. Only after descending some way down a steep slope did I realise that we were now following the Herefordshire Way and not the Mortimer Trail. Back up the hill, and that felt like the steepest bit of the whole day.

A long section of pasture, with sheep crowded into every patch of shade by the field edge, then soon onto quiet lanes for the last couple of miles. We were very early for the arranged taxi pickup (to take us back to Ludlow for the night) so we walked an extra mile to a convenient and pleasant pub, and rearranged the pickup point. Good decision!

The Mortimer Trail

I mistyped ‘trail’ as ‘trial’, I hope that wasn’t prophetic. After a long winter and spring, here we go again. The Mortimer Trail is a 30 mile walking route from Ludlow in Shropshire to Kington in Herefordshire. I bought a guidebook for it several years ago which lay in a drawer until we started tentatively considering a holiday for this year. We found a company (Contours) who arrange accommodation and baggage transfer, and here we are in Ludlow.

We came by train (a direct connection from Haverfordwest, 24 stops). Not too busy, the majority but not all wearing masks, and no checks of masks or tickets.

We’ve visited Ludlow several times over the years and it’s always good to come back. We spent the early evening wandering around the streets, so many beautiful old houses and some lovely gardens, a lot of care taken. Down by the River Teme a kingfisher skimmed across the water then settled on a branch, making an occasional foray into the water.

Then off to Mortimers restaurant, appropriately, for an exceptional meal, which may slow us down even more on the hills tomorrow. Just our luck, the forecast is for the warmest weather of the year so far for the west.