Author: annechambers

Well we’re back in Pembrokeshire and the temperature has plummeted and the view has gone – it’s lovely to be back!

We enjoyed our stay at Brynhaul B&B with a car ride out to the Tafarn Sinc at Rosebush for our last pub meal for a while. When we woke this morning it was grey and wet, so we set off in cagoules with the rain covers on our bags. The lanes led directly westwards without much variation in height which was satisfying in some ways, but a bit dull. The Pembrokeshire banks lining the lanes still had some flowers in them but weren’t as colourful as a month or two ago. I’d hoped for the occasional distant view of recognisable landmarks but visibility varied from about 2 miles down to a couple of hundred yards when we were in the worst of the mizzle.

There were a couple of dips and climbs over the streams feeding into the Llysyfran reservoir. We crossed the A40 for the last time just south of Letterston, then the railway and the Western Cleddau at Welsh Hook. From there we took a very minor road and then a track which led us nicely up the Penybanc ridge and home, where the welcoming party of daughter Corinna and granddaughters Merryn and Elowen were waiting for us (or would have been if Merryn hadn’t needed a wee at the critical moment).

So we’re home, having walked over 265 miles, but not finished, as tomorrow we walk on to our home from home for the last 50/40 years respectively, our caravan at Pencarnan (not the same caravan all that time, we are quite civilised now). As I said yesterday, it would be lovely to meet up with some of you there at the very end of the walk – see yesterday’s post for details,

We knew what to expect today – in the first couple of miles, two sets of a steep drop down followed by a steeper climb up old tracks. Then a lot of plodding along lanes heading straight west, to the foot of Foel Cwm Cerwyn, the highest point of the Preselis. We checked last night with Stephen and Judy who assured us that the tracks were usable though steep. They had prepared us a great meal of home-reared beef, which made a lovely change from pub meals. Home-made cider too!

Well that was the plan, foiled at the outset by the first track up to Llanwinio being blocked with a ‘Footpath Closed’ notice and red tape on the footbridge over the river. So we checked the map for the alternative route – I thought I’d made sure that there was always a reasonable road alternative – and found it involved a 4 mile detour, down the valley, east up a side valley then across and back up the other side of the valley.

With hindsight, perhaps we should have tried the footpath anyway, but being law-abiding folk, we headed off south and east – it was very beautiful but not what we wanted. After 5 miles, we were about a mile as the crow flies from where we had started. The second track up fortunately did exist and made a pleasant change from the lanes we were on for the rest of the day – 18.3 miles in all. But we have made good progress west and are in Pembrokeshire again at last.

Thank goodness it was not as hot as it has been – some drizzle to start with, a bit of a westerly breeze, clouds rolling down across the hills at times but no serious rain, a little sun to finish.

We’re looking forward to reaching home tomorrow – but that is not the end, as we then carry on beyond St Davids. If any of our Pembrokeshire friends would like to join us on Saturday for a celebratory cup of tea at Pencarnan (SA62 6PY, third caravan on the right from the big green reception barn), we hope to arrive at around 4pm and you are all welcome.

“As I walked out one midsummer morning” seems an appropriate theme today, it’s the first line of a folk song, The Banks of Sweet Primroses (though it doesn’t explain why they were flowering in June) and is also the title of Laurie Lee’s second memoir, where he leaves Slad with his violin and walks first to Southampton and then around Spain. I’ve always read these chronicles of walks – Edward Thomas in search of the Icknield Way, Gerald Brennan also in Spain – with some bewilderment, but now I start to understand how what seems epic is just a matter of a day at a time: the next mile, the next hill, the next bed for the night.

Today wasn’t ideal walking weather but we struggled our way out of Carmarthen (only having to make a brief reverse to retrieve Ian’s hat from the deli) and started on a succession of shady lanes downhill, across a stream then a long unshaded climb up again. We knew from the map it was going to be tiring, and we had plenty of short breaks, as well as being able to drink on the move from our water reservoirs.

Only one dog today, who was reluctant to move out of the shade he was lying in, but got up to make sure we weren’t staying on his patch.

There was occasionally some breeze, and high white cloud brought the temperature down slightly, but it was very humid. We just kept plodding along and after 5.5 hours had done 13.5 miles with 1400ft ascent (and nearly as much descent) and reached our destination – the only Airbnb within about 10 miles. Fortunately Judy was happy to cook for us tonight, it’s a long way on foot to the nearest pub.

We are now due north of St Clears, for those who know the A40; we glimpsed the Preselis through the haze, looking slightly closer than they were; and we can see the big TV mast that our aerial points at!

We made a leisurely start to the morning as the walk wasn’t too long (10.2 miles) and it was going to be horribly hot whenever we did it. Caron and Fiona gave us a delicious breakfast and it was a shame to leave their cool house with its amazing marble floors, but we slathered on the sun cream, put on the increasingly dirty hats, smelly boots and rucksacks, laden with 2 litres of water each, and headed off. We immediately had to take the rucksacks off again in order to get through one of those irritating footpath gates in a cage which is too small (I found one the other day which I couldn’t get through even after I took the rucksack off!).

As yesterday, there were some shady lanes but more that weren’t, usually those going up hill. Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun , and we met one dog that may not have been mad but sure wasn’t happy that we were trying to walk past the entrance to his farm (on a public road). We managed to get by, but it may continue to be a problem as we walk through parts of Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire where visitors on foot are almost unheard of.

Very little traffic on the lanes, but also almost no views although we were on a ridge, and I’m afraid today’s photos are a dull set. As we walked through Llangunner above Carmarthen, we were pleased to find a convenience store where we got a drink and ice cream (guess what, one of their fridges had broken down), then down the hill into the town, the usual argument about where to go (which is always Ian’s fault when we go the wrong way) and finally across the river Towy, having done the briefest of sections of the Welsh Coast Path, and up to our cheapish but good hotel.

What a hot day – and a walk that I thought might not have much interest as we corrected our course by going northward again, now through villages that are signed off the A48 after the end of the M4. But it wasn’t unpleasant walking, just a bit too hot for 11.2 miles.

We were reluctant to leave The Mill at Glynhir, where Matt and Helen had looked after us so well, but dragged ourselves away by 10am to cross the fields to Llandybie, where the Co-op had no sandwiches because the fridge had broken down. So we bought sausage rolls instead before noticing a nice-looking bakers over the road.

After a few noisy minutes along a relatively busy road, we turned off up a shady track, up past the quarries that are part of the town’s industrial heritage, and then along very quiet minor roads. As the day progressed, the lanes got more hilly and less shady, so it was with relief that we found a cool quiet wood with a useful log pile to sit and eat the sausage rolls and various other bits of food that we’d accumulated (Corinna’s Father’s Day flapjacks were delicious).

Before long we could see Paxton’s Tower not far ahead, which is a landmark when driving along the A40 or A48, and we diverted to see it close up, but concluded it is probably more interesting from a distance. Google tells me it is an early 19c folly, built to commemorate Nelson, but the on-site information board was blank. The views were good, though the afternoon was filling with white haze, and we could see back where we’ve walked for the last three days or so. The Preselis didn’t look any closer than yesterday, hard to believe we can get to the foot of them in three days walking.

Coming down the hill into Llanarthne, today’s unexpected encounter was with two peacocks on the road. I was glad to reach our very smart but welcoming B&B, Llwyn Helyg, where we were given tea and cakes in a wonderful vaulted room, and enjoyed the Jacuzzi bath (without the laundry this time!). We ate at Wright’s Food Emporium, a welcome change from all the pub meals and well worth a return visit when we are not limited in what we can carry.

Today our route took a sharp dog-leg south-west, very obvious on the route map, partly because we are keeping to the south of the Towy valley but also because there was little choice of accommodation. I was not happy that we had to walk half a mile east at the end of the day – but another great day’s walking.

Zoë and Charles delivered a Father’s Day picnic and clean clothes before we left this morning, and a parcel from Corinna was waiting when we arrived tonight. Impressive considering I haven’t received my birthday present from them yet.

It was a very hot day, but initially the lanes were shaded by high banks or trees. The honeysuckle is just coming out, the foxgloves are in full flower but the elderflowers and roses are past their best. We climbed back up the ridge we descended yesterday, but a few miles south-west, then joined the Beacons Way for a stretch. This is a path for walkers carrying food and tents and with more energy than me, as it takes the high paths and there’s nowhere to stay, but we saw none of them today. We found the first proper bog of the walk.

I was very excited to see our Pembrokeshire mountains, the Preselis, in the far west – the end, or at least a high bit near the end, is in sight!

As we descended, we took a diversion to Carreg Cennen, a ruined 12c castle high on a crag, reminding us a little of Lindisfarne. Being suckers for punishment, we left our bags in the tea shop and climbed right to the top. I could have claimed my first concessionary ticket price but I forgot!

We then walked another 4 miles on very hot lanes to reach tonight’s B&B – extremely comfortable and helpful. We get a lift to the pub tonight, first time in a car for over two weeks. We’ve now walked nearly 200 miles and are almost west of Swansea.

I managed another 10 hour sleep in a comfortable bed, though the pub had a sad air with a sale board outside, some serious damp problems and owners who obviously wished they could be somewhere else.

I changed today’s route slightly to avoid walking up and down an unnecessary hill, which turned out to be a wise move as the field at the end of the original route was occupied by a fearsome bull with cows and young calves in attendance. We stuck to the high roads again, through Glasfynydd Forest with the Black Mountain to our south and the Usk Reservoir north. I’d hoped we would have good views of the latter but we saw only one brief glimpse of water through the trees. It was a hot day, a little hazy, but with a bit of freshness in the light breeze from the west.

We descended again into farm land, with red kites wheeling overhead, though not as many as in Didcot. We decided not to wait for feeding time at the Red Kite Feeding Centre but pressed on, up a lane which turned into a track, one of the most beautiful I have ever walked. It led uphill, with views back over the Beacons, as far as Pen y Fan, behind us. Near the top we paused for a brief siesta in the shade, then as we crested the hill, the rolling hills, woods and fields of Carmarthenshire opened up below us. Just a few surprised sheep to keep us company.

We could see our destination, Llangadog, but as usual it took longer to reach than anticipated, partly because it was hot but also because the locals are now friendly, in a West Wales way, so we fell into conversation with a couple of people we encountered. Llangadog is a surprisingly busy little village where every other house seems to be a pub, there used to be a livestock market here. Our Airbnb accommodation is comfortable in an interesting way – the shared bathroom with a door that is reluctant to close, let alone lock, is almost a step too far but it’s only one night.

I feel better after our rest day in Brecon, though I wish I’d booked a bigger room with space to sit, and less cacophonous floor and wall coverings, and without the 2am revellers outside. Still, we set out again this morning with renewed enthusiasm.

From now on, we have plotted our own route and will mostly be walking on minor roads as they are more likely to exist and be passable than footpaths. We got off to a cracking start with a lane that rose steadily for a couple of miles and then ran across common land on a ridge, with wide grassy tracks parallel to the road and great views  of Pen y Fan to our left.

A brief foray off-road was almost unsuccessful when we found ourselves in a farmyard with a large but lazy dog, a dead cow and no obvious onward path. We escaped through a sheep field on what we hoped was a right of way, but there weren’t many footpath signs today and we got suspicious looks from farmers in passing cars.

Approaching the village of Defynnog, I Googled to check the pub opening hours (closed until 4) but was prompted to enter ‘Defynnog yew tree’ which is apparently over 5000 years old. So we diverted through the churchyard to investigate, and found it occupied by a group of slightly hippyish mothers and young children, who had made gifts for the tree. Extraordinary to think of a living entity older than the Pyramids and Stonehenge, and probably somewhere people have worshipped and brought offerings for 4000 years before the church was there.

All in all, a lovely day’s walking (15.1 miles) with great views and little traffic, with enough breeze and cloud to keep us cool, and a quieter room tonight in Trecastle.

My cousin Emily asked the other day whether I was actually enjoying the walking, and I’ve had plenty of time to think about it.

I’m enjoying being on a journey, crossing the demarcations of the M5, the Severn, the line where we are west of Cardiff. We’ve passed through places that were just names on road signs, and many I’d never heard of. Areas that are geared towards tourists and areas which are rarely visited, especially by anyone walking. We’ve enjoyed telling people what we are doing, and getting responses ranging from disinterest to bewilderment to disbelief to enthusiasm to envy (not much of the latter).

I’m enjoying knowing that I have the stamina and strength (strong and stable?) to cope with the mileages we are doing, in spite of having been completely unsporty for  all of my life. I’m delighted that my hay fever has abated as I’ve got older (I’m using a nasal spray when I remember, but I’ve walked through freshly cut hay with no problem), and that my vision is perfect after surgery last year and I no longer need contact lenses or reading glasses.

Some of the walks have been dull or difficult, some have been beautiful, but there is always something interesting or unexpected. The accommodation has been varied but usually friendly, and the nightly game of Hunt the Hairdryer continues, not always successfully. Breakfast continues to challenge me.

But am I enjoying physically having to lift each foot over 10,000 times a day to move well over 12 stone of me and bag forward – or worse, uphill? After I made that calculation I had to sit down for a rest! Perhaps I will have an answer to that one after the next hundred miles or so.

Brecon Cathedral

High altar

River Honddu

Yesterday evening we managed to walk a quarter of a mile to the nearest pub, wolfed down plates of steak and chips and a bottle of wine, staggered back to the B&B and slept for ten hours. I felt much better this morning with, at last, a beautiful sunny day to lift my spirits.

We started off along the canal again, transformed by the sunshine, then decided it was time to make sure we could still manage hills (and I think I would have jumped into the canal in boredom if we’d had another full day of it). The paths up were clear and not too steep, no cows only sheep, and glorious views. The first climb took us up above the Talybont reservoir, then we descended along an old tramway, rather stony underfoot, crossed the river leaving the reservoir and climbed the ridge the other side, where we found orchids growing and a nasty little dog (Ian says it was a Corgi, I tried not to look at it).

After another steep path down, we stayed on the road for a while to avoid a winding section of canal and take the opportunity to stop at a pub for non-alcoholic beer – it was a hot day and we needed to keep hydrated. Then finally back with the canal, now populated with day-trip boats, for the last 3 miles into the middle of Brecon.

We now have a day off to rest and reflect and ponder the contours of the route ahead – we’re well over halfway, but maybe that was just the easy bit!